Grilled Eel Rice Bowl @ Okinohata-an, Yanagawa, Fukuoka

 

Unlike most parts of the world, Japan seems to have a more favourable view when it comes to eel and their local cuisine. I remembered living in London before and some people told me that despite its traditional past, jelly eels are not something locals like. And it has even made it a significant factor as to why most British people hate eels. Well a hitsumabushi will probably hit very differently. 

One of the many canals 

Hitsumabushi or a grilled eel being served on a rice bowl is a specialty of Yanagawa, located at the southern part of Fukuoka. Known for its long and scenic canals, it is one of the few places that is called the Venice of Japan. I am sure some people from Kurashiki may have some fighting words with regards to that nickname, but it is hard not too make that reference. I was there during Golden Week with my family and I have to say it was a sight to behold. As it was during this festive season, a parade and festival for the Okihata Suitengu Shrine was also held during my visit. It was a lively environment and there were the usual stalls everywhere. From small games to food hawkers, it is what you would expect from the event. 

What a menu. Ironically their most famous dish is not here. 

Having said that, food from a festival, although good, is the generic noodles and fried chicken. So in need for something with a bit more substance we ended up at Okihohata-an for something more special. As there were a lot of people in the area, it was expected that any food outlets would require us to have a long wait. However, we did not expect our wait to exceed an entire hour! Still, patience is a virtue and before long we were given our seats. Since their main starmaker is the grilled eel rice bowl it just makes sense for me to get it. Standing at 1500 yen and served with a side of seaweed soup, it is considered quite cheap when it comes to eels. 

Majestic!

Despite the long wait, the food arrived quite quickly. And once the lid of the bowl has been taken away, it was evident the wait was worth it. The flesh of the eel had a nice amber glow to it, evidence that it has been cooked with a lot of time and attention. With a scattering of crispy seaweed and a side of pickles, it may sound simple but there was some beauty to its simplicity. But a bite into this amazing treat exposes so much more. 

What a close up

The soy based glaze had a nice depth to it. It was not overly sweet, enough to penetrate the fishy flesh of the eel without cutting away the eel's own natural sweetness. The outer glaze was also a bit sticky but it did not affect the crispy texture of the skin of the eel. A real testament showing that the eel was was expertly grilled. The flesh itself was flaky and tender making it very easy to break apart and mix with the bed of rice underneath. The pickled vegetables together provided some crunch and tartness which actually complimented the overall experience. 

First of many glorious bites. 

Once all the elements a well mixed, then it is time for the chow down. it is actually quite nice to see all the elements mix in together. The saucy glaze from the eel provided that extra depth into the white rice which make everything just go down so well. And since the flesh of the eel is so tender, it is as though you cannot see it once it is mixed into everything. But after a bite you can definitely feel it. 

The many condiments at your disposal

However, if you would like to add more variety to your eel eating experience, you can add some sansho pepper which I strongly recommend. It provided that mala kick which you get from a chinese hot pot. You could also add some tea into the dish and make a form of porridge which was one of the ways you can eat this. However, the current form is already tasty enough I gobbled everything down within minutes. 

Live music on a boat? Why not?

Would I recommend coming here just for the eel? Actually yes! However, this comes with the caveat that you come during a time away from a big festival. Don't get me wrong, the festival was fun and I enjoyed my time exploring the place too. There is something that such festivals provide to visitors that no other Japanese experience can provide. Having said that, if you are here to try some of great eel dishes Yanagawa has to offer, do come during off season. If the Okinohata-an has caught your attention, I do not see why not, then the address is as follows:

20-2 Inarimachi, Yanagawa, Fukuoka 832-0066

Front of the house.