Tokyo Eating Out Survival Guide, Part 3: Drinking
In this third and final installment of the Tokyo Eating Out Survival Guide series, we will tackle the oh so important question: where is the beer?
Visiting Japan without any direction or Japanese, or worse both, can make it a challenging trip, let alone getting to a bar. So for this article, we will dive deep into the belly of the beast, an alcohol filled one, and give you some tips and advise as to how you can have a good night out.
Caution: Once again, this is a post of a series that has been very comprehensive and LONG . I am covering a lot of content here but making the contents brief will not do the topic justice. But trust me, the destination is worth the journey. Also if you have missed out on the first two installments, click here for the first one on where to eat, and the second one here on how to order.
Where to Go
 |
| A usual izakaya |
If you have been following my travels in Japan, you would probably notice some references to izakayas, which are Japanese style taverns. Not only its a good place to eat on the cheap, but booze selections are aplenty. A popular place for office workers to unwind after the clocking out from the office, some provide great honest grub as well.
I have been to a few and had a great time. As I have already covered them extensively before, do check out my posts on the two izakayas I have visited which are Daikoku-ya and Saitamaya 2, both are located in Omoide Yokocho.
 |
| One of the many alleyways in Golden Gai |
Another option are yokocho bars, which literally mean alley bars. Alley bars in Japan tend to be very different that the ones you are used to. There are "mainstream" bars that you can see in the main street, but what I am referring to are the small Japanese style bars where they sit no more than 12 people, located in an alleyway. Hence, the name. One example would be the popular Shinjuku watering hole of Golden Gai. Small and quaint, this drinking hot spot hosts various different bars around the area and each has its own unique taste and crowd.
 |
| Inside Deathmatch in Hell |
If you want something very eccentric, Deathmatch in Hell is a great place to be. Strewn with horror posters and heavy metal at the background, the place is actually very cozy and I met a former US marine with his brother in law. The owner was surprisingly full of smiles and gave us free popcorn.And he speaks fluent English. Every drink on the menu is ¥666 . So choose wisely, as some of the drinks will be cheaper elsewhere, while others are a steal. And you will have a headache in dealing with the remainder ¥1 coins in the end. But a great place and surprisingly fun.
 |
| Mr Abe, or affectionately called Abe-chan, the man behind the counter for Bar Asyl. |
If you want a more sophisticated vibe which is more serene, Bar Asyl is the place to be. Owned and managed by the very friendly Mr Abe, the bar has various types of whiskey in store, from the usual suspects you see in supermarkets to the Japanese gems like the Hibiki. Mr Abe himself is quite fun to hang around with and he speaks fluent English too. The best drink on the bar was actually his mothers one home brew plum liquor which was ¥200 per shot. Smooth, sweet and fruity, it was a pleasant drink with a flowery aroma.
 |
| Front of the house for Gindaco Highball |
There are also standing bars, called tachinomi. These bars are very casual and are similar to an izakaya, minus the chairs. Drinks and food will be relatively cheap as well. The one I have been was a Gindaco Highball branch. So technically not a bar through and through, as some might classify this as a standing restaurant. But it does serve great highballs and pairs well with takoyaki.
What to Drink
Who needs a Heineken when you know you can try something local? The Japanese beer market is dominated by these four companies: Asahi, Suntory, Kirin and Sapporo Brewery. Note that some bars however have their own brews and some prefectures have their own local beers.
 |
| When a place is named after this drink, you know the highball is good. |
Another common potion consumed will be the highball (ハイボール). This cocktail is the combination if whisky, soda water and a citrus. At times, this is sweetened. Each establishment has its own version of highball, where I have tried grapefruit laced, some with some lime, to another just packed with a whole lemon in each glass.
But of course, nothing defines Japanese drinks better than sake or nihon-shu (日本酒). As there are so many in store, and some bars have their own home brew, turn on your adventurous side and just try anything on the menu.
Another delicious alternative is shochu (焼酎). Slightly different from sake, it is made out of rice plus a few other ingredients like barley or potatoes. My favourite is the Kurokirishima, or Kirishima Black.
 |
| My favourite potion for now. |
Bar Snacks
 |
| The non-negotiable. This one is from Saitamaya 2 |
This is where things get a little tricky. Some izakayas or yokocho bars provide you with an appetizer or a plate of treats as you go in, but little did you know this is actually something that has to be paid for. "Otoshi" (お通し) are compulsory appetizers and you actually do have to pay for them, which can cost around the range of ¥300-¥500. If you treat this as a seating charge, then at least it makes some sense. Do note that some places do have seating charges, especially in Golden Gai.
 |
| Who in the right mind will reject free popcorn? |
On the other hand, you have free flow snacks that are on the house. Called "otsumami" (おつまみ), this will be the equivalent to nuts and crackers at your local bar. One example is Deathmatch from Hell's popcorn, which is used to help the drinks go down.
Wrapping up
I hope the points highlighted above will help in making your night out with friends a great one and something definitely straying away from the usual Carlsberg with fries. However, do note that Japan is so diverse and so unique that having a blanket explanation may not serve its night life justice. I really thank you all for taking the time in reading this survival guide. As a reward, here is another Bonus Extra!
Penned by my friend that followed me to Tokyo, here is his experience in the whiskey bar called Shot Bar Zoetrope. For the time being, he would like to be known as XH.
BONUS EXTRA!
This bar is located in Nishi-shinjuku in a nondescript office building. I spent nearly half an hour finding it before stumbling upon its tiny sign indicated on the building’s tenant list.
Once you go in however, you meet bartender Atsushi Horigami’s rather idiosyncratic shrine to Japanese whisky and American movies. His bar has Tokyo’s best selection of Japanese whisky bar none. It even has specialist bottlings from cult distillers such as Ichiro Akuto and Akashi Malt. At one end of the bar is a projection of silent movies overlaid with a quiet soundtrack of a more modern variety. It may sound strange on paper but the whole setup is really cozy and intimate, much like having a drink in a friend’s drawing room.
Mr Horigami may give off a gruff first impression, but he speaks good English and is supremely knowledgeable about Japanese whisky. He offers tasting sets based on various themes such as age, distillery, cask finishings or even a Scotland vs Japan comparison. Everything is reasonably priced considering the skyrocketing price and (non-)availability of Japanese whisky.
When I went, it was just me, Mr Horigami and another patron at the bar. The cozy atmosphere really encourages conversation and we exchanged stories about our respective lives, no doubt fuelled by the excellent whisky that Mr Horigami poured for us. Mr Horigami also regaled us with stories of the Japanese whisky industry, which is doubtlessly as characterful and as colourful as its Scottish counterpart.
So once you’ve finally found the right building in Nishi-shinjuku, go up the stairs and allow yourself to be transported into Mr Horigami’s world of whisky and movies. Pull up a chair at the bar and order a drink. Relax and watch the movie. Talk to the patrons around you.
Everyone is a friend at Zoetrope.
~ XH
Comments
Post a Comment