Being a port town, the cuisine in Nagasaki has been marinated and mixed with various cultures and flavours. That being the case, it is no surprise that it has a food culture that is quite different when being compared to the rest of the country. Although it has also been more known due to its grim past, like Hiroshima, its story of revival is nothing short of a miracle. And its past has played a strong role in its future.
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| Alley street walks |
Back in the Japanese medieval days, Nagasaki was a hotbed for Chinese merchants. Slowly, more and more Chinese restaurants, bars, and other cultural establishments start to take shape. There is even a Chinatown here too which stands to this day. Even now, there are various shops and locales that do the same. One of which is the gritty yet interesting street of Motoshikkuimachi (思案橋横丁).
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Oh yes!
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Loaded with karaoke bars, fancy restaurants, and humble family joints, this street gives off a vibe similar to Golden Gai or Nakasu. You may somehow get cornered into a tourist trap but there are some good gems here. One of which is the gyoza diner called Unryutei (雲龍亭). And its menu has a simple premise consisting of gyoza, grilled meat, and a Chinese-style omelette called nira. "Nira" directly translates to chives but for this shop, it's specifically chive omelettes.
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| Bountiful |
So not long after, a plate of freshly cooked dumplings and a plate of omelette arrived. The presentation is quite rough around the edges, but it was really good. The tiny dumplings were well cooked, with the bottom side golden brown, while to top is soft and steamy. The skins were more like ravioli, but it is ok as it gave off a pleasant bite. Do note that gyoza in Nagasaki tends to be smaller than most parts.
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| So tasty |
The meat filling was loaded with scallion and garlic flavour. The overall experience is further enhanced when you did into the salty yet tart sauce that comes with it. Adding a bit of chilli oil gave of the spicy edge that rounds out the experience as a whole.
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| Simple glory |
The nira was well, a chive and pork omellete. It sounded simple, which it was. Yet, it was gravely satisfying for its simplicity. There was so much flavour in this simple egg dish. Imagine the Chinese cousin of the bacon omelette, and you get the idea.
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| Humble interior |
This establishment was simple and humble eats but was great in dividends. My overall meal was only 1000 yen, with the plate of 10 gyoza being 600 yen and the porky egg being 400 yen. So although Unryutei and its surrounding environs may be a bit rough and intimidating at first, give it a go. I am sure you would be treated to some amazing cheap eats. Its address is as follows:
2-15 Motoshikkuimachi, Nagasaki, 850-0901
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| Front of the house |
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