Chinese Dinner @ Shikairou, Matsugaemachi, Nagasaki

 

Despite being able to visit the great city of Nagasaki a few times, I was not able to visit the legendary restaurant that is Shikairou. Well, luck finally smiled upon me when I was able to bring my folks there during a winter vacation not too long ago. And being the Chinese New Year season, writing about this legendary restaurant cannot be more fitting. 

Classic!

Chuka Ryouri Shikairou (中華料理四海樓), or just Shikairou in short, has been considered one of the main cornerstones of Chinese food in Japan. As mentioned in part articles, Nagasaki being a port town, has caused it to become a melting pot of various cultures where people from over the world come to Japan to trade. One such person was Chen Ping Shun from Fujian who migrated to Japan in the Meiji era in search of a better future. He first initially opened an inn and restaurant called Shikairou and was said to have invented the noodle dishes champon and sara udon. The small establishment eventually grew and now it is based in a majestic 5 storey building complex near Glover Garden. 

What an ensemble!

Although the roots of champon was pretty clear, the origins of sara udon was a little murky. Despite that, those dishes have been served since the pre-war era and are still staples of the the establishment at present time. So getting a serving of sara udon seems like an obvious choice. To round things off, we have also ordered a plate of gyoza, fried rice, and boiled chicken. So with such a legacy since the 1900s, how does the modern-era interpretation stands the test of time? Pretty good actually. 

For full and frank disclosure, sara udon is one of my favourite Chinese-inspired Japanese dishes. It reminds me Cantonese style yee mee back home. With a rich and velvety sauce and a crispy noodle base, it was something that would be hard to resist. The plate was loaded with shrimp, squid and fish cake, giving it a bountiful feel. The sauce was also very smooth and delectable. With those elements latching onto the crispy and golden brown noodles, each mouthful was a loud spectrum of flavours and textures. Standing at a mere 1100 yen, this was such a steal. 

Hi spec rice. Not a joke

The fried rice was also done pretty well. Each grain of rice felt like its own entity but at the same time, provides a fluffy texture with a toothsome bite. A few different contrasting elements, but that was what makes it so good. It was a bit greasy but that is to be expected. the word "fried" is literally in its name.  With chunks of meat, vegetables, and bits of egg, this was a full spectrum assault. Also standing at 1100 yen this was really nice. 

Delectable dumplings

Not to be outdone was the gyoza. Standing at a mere 600 yen, esch dumpling was crispy on one side but still soft and chewy on the other. The filling was delicious and fatty chunks of pork which went very well with dark vinegar. Another top recommendation. 

Well, at least I filled my protein quota.

The only low point of the meal was the chicken. It chicken was pretty bland and was actually a bit cold. The peanut sauce did help elevate the dish, but it can only help so far. Well, at least it is a bit healthier compared to the rest of the meal. This plate stood for 1100 yen. 

Look at the size of this place!

Despite the slightly disappointing chicken dish, the overall experience was very nice. The dining hall was very grand, the food was tasty yet affordable and the staff was pretty friendly. It really reminded me of those gigantic restaurants with grand halls that are only reserved for wedding ceremonies. Of course, if someone is looking for an authentic Chinese experience, please temper your expectations. Although the outside does pay homage to its origins, the dishes in general are through and through Japanese. And that is not meant as an insult as this was in the end, pretty good. 

It also just shows you the interesting and complex culinary culture that Nagasaki has to offer. And if you would like to have a taste of such an amazing culture from the establishment that started it all, Shikairou is a sure fire recommendation. If this has caught your attention, then the address is as follows:

4-5 Matsugaemachi, Nagasaki, 850-0921, Japan